Exchange Rates, Language Barriers, and a New Do

I have fallen into the ponytail trap.

Staying at home with a baby who stays in bed until about 10am hasn't encouraged me to change my nocturnal lifestyle. She is my alarm and I find it difficult to pull myself together before she wakes up from her afternoon nap. I have felt a nagging need to get a style overhaul a la What Not to Wear.

The woman who lived in our apartment previously left a business card for a local hair stylist. I have been considering calling her since we moved in, but fear of confusing important vocabulary kept me at bay. Finally, a fiasco of ensembles over Thanksgiving, in which even Nate told me once he didn't really like my outfit, led me to take the plunge. Nate booked the appointment for me and I never looked back.

It is a law in France for coiffeurs to post their prices in the salon windows. Most seem to range between 25-35 Euro. We arrived, I showed her photos of hairstyles I liked, but emphasized (at least I emphasized to Nate) that it was essential that my hair's natural texture be considered because I could not spend 30 minutes straightening it daily. She suggested a length, a combination of hairstyles, and we began the process.

As the hair started to fall I was amazed at how calm I was. This woman exuded the confidence French women are famous for - I believed she had the genetic coding to get style right. Two hours after I walked through the doors she had finished her masterpiece and was quite pleased with herself. If she thought it was great, then based on the above formula I had rendered as truth, it must be great. Nate gathered our coats while I went to the register to pay. "Quatre-vingt douze Euro sil vous plait" she said with a smile. COMMENT?? (I have a very hard time with numbers still, I must have heard wrong.) She kindly typed it into the calculator to show me: 92 Euro.

For liberal arts majors and those of you not keeping regular tabs on the current worth of the dollar abroad let me tell you what that means in plain American. ONE HUNDRED AND SEVENTEEN BONES!!! For a haircut. A haircut and a shampoo, she did put conditioner in too, but did that really cost that much more?? I handed over my payment and thought, "Happy Christmas to me." Too embarassed to look at the prices posted on the window immediately after exiting the store, I sent Nate on a reconnaisance mission later that night. His report was filled with extra costs hastily ignored.

They are as follows:
Haircuts, 31 Euro for short hair.
Haircuts, 36 Euro for medium length hair.
Haircuts, 41 Euro for long hair.
Haircuts with my hairstylist, who also happened to be the owner of the salon, 61 Euro
Haircuts with my stylist AND her "signature" consultation, 75 Euro
Conditioner extra
Blow Out add even more

Another expensive lesson in living overseas.

So, here it is. The haircut:

NASCAR aka the Etoile

We were lucky enough to have our second round of friends visit over Thanksgiving. Less than 12 hours before they were scheduled to board their flight, we took them on an adventure into the chaos commonly called the Place Charles DeGaulle. For those of you who have not been to Paris, you might not be familiar with the degree of fear, horror, and excitement this traffic circle causes for every American tourist I have come in contact with.

The circle itself has a total of 12 streets entering it from all different directions. There are no lanes, no rules but to ultimately yield to the incoming cars. To yield however is not to be confused with stopping. Watching the traffic is like watching a train wreck, you just can't move your eyes away. Smart cars, mopeds, buses, police cars, and unexperienced visitors add to the drama. We documented the event and are inclined to ask every visitor to Paris to drive the circle themselves. Like our own Parisian hazing ritual. I am putting my money on Leslie - after all, she was a professional driver!

When you are watching the video pay attention to the following for added entertainment value:
What is Ruby's immediate reaction?
How many times does Rebecca point out the Eiffel Tower before Nate records it?
How many times do we go around the circle, and is it intentional?
In your opinion, does the narrator/camera man even notice the occasion when we are nearly hit by two cars from both sides?

Enjoy.

An American in Paris...on Thanksgiving

11 AM: Wake up
1:00 PM: Leave house, go to toy store down the street to find a birthday gift for a 3 year old
1:30 PM: Realize you aren't looking for the child anymore, but actually more for yourself, hurry and leave...
2:30 PM: Hit a creperie for lunch
3:45 PM: Metro to Catacombs
4:00 PM: Last guests to enter "gravesite"
4:15 PM: Escorted by staff member to hurry us along so they can go home
4:17 PM: Convince Nate and Rebecca to walk slowly with the baby, thus stalling the impatient staff member so we can sneak ahead and take pictures (forbidden with flash)
4:45 PM: Leave Catacombs 20 minutes early thanks to impatient staff.
6:00 PM: Drop off birthday gift
7:30 PM: Dinner at local cafe, order duck (closest you can find to turkey)
10:00 PM: Reflect on the day, recognize how great the food was, but vow to always cook a real Thanksgiving meal in years to come...and not to visit mass graveyards in the future on a "day of thanks".

Catacombs 101: In the 18th century the central locale of Les Halles was plagued with disease. Improper burial practices compounded the problem, which created a vicious cycle. In order to alleviate the problem, and to create room for more graves, the Paris government secretly grave-robbed at night for several years, moving all the old bones to the catacombs, before the plan was discovered. (Shout out to Tad for all the great pictures his diligence made possible on this blog)

Mont Saint Michel

A short night's sleep, an incident with incorrectly saving the car rental receipt, and a baby who wouldn't go to bed before midnight didn't stop us from making the 3.5 hour trek from Paris to Mont St Michel and back. The abbey for which the small island town is famous (4 million visitors annually) was built in the 10th century and was the fourth Christian Pilgramage locale (Jerusalem, Rome, Spain preceeding). The walk up the steep, narrow, and twisty roads crawling with kitschy souvenir shops shouldn't discourage you from making the complete summit to the abbey. Marveille (or Marvelous in English) is the name of the actual abbey situated on the pyramidal shaped granite island. The Eastern side of the building collapsed in the 14th century and was rebuilt with flying buttresses for support, when you view the pictures you can clearly differentiate the architectural distinctions between the two wings. Family Bonus: a few pictures of Ruby included in the slideshow.

Take Manhattan Just Give Me That Countryside

Versailles is an essential day trip for anyone's Paris visit. For many Americans it seems the only link we have to the French: the revolution. This palace, should awaken a sense of horror in us. The audaciously lavish ceiling decor, the walls covered in silk and gold at a time when peasants were dying of hunger. On the surface we all like to think we cheer for the underdog. But ultimately, we walk the endless corridors somehow inspired, wondering what balls were thrown here, what the gentlemen and ladies of the court wore, and how we could use just an ounce of this lavishness to spice up our modest homes.

Growing up, like all little girls, I loved stories of princesses. I always wanted to live the life of royalty (and checked out nearly every book on Princess Diana available in our local library as proof), but dreamed of some day marrying a farmer. It is that constant internal juxtaposition that explains my love for country music and rap, political liberalism and religious conservatism, J.Lo and Jackie O. But, in my most recent visit to Versailles, I finally found how my two-selves could reconcile.

LE PETIT HAMEAU (The Hamlet)




(photos courtesy Shiloh)

We have heard stories of the extravagant lifestyle of Marie Antoinette, and some have seen it in Sophia Copola's recent movie starring Kirsten Dunst. But, can we give the girl a break already...she was just trying to live the simple life.

Here she escaped to bathed and perfumed sheep and cows wandering the landscaped pasteur. Marie could milk these cows and use porcelain pitchers to collect the milk. As an added bonus, the pitchers bore her monogram (a simple addition that really adds something, don't you think?)

The grounds at the Hamlet are complete with, in addition to the farm: a mill, a warming room, the Boudoir, the Dove Cote and a guard's house in addition to the Queen's House located at the edge of the "lake."

Manicure

Shannon gave Ruby a manicure while she was here. I think you can see by the look on Ruby's face, despite the closed eyes, how amazing she thought it was to get her nails done.

Happy Birthday Ruby!

Yesterday was Ruby's first birthday. She showed her tendancy to be like her mother: relishing the attention, demanding things her way, and leaving her tiara on throughout most of the festivities. We had a small party with a few neighborhood families over to sing happy birthday, eat cake, and ultimately cause such chaos in our house as to assuage any ideas of "another" any time soon. We imported party supplies (thanks to Ruby's favorite birthday present: Shannon) in red, white, and blue to celebrate both events of the day!

Guess Who's Coming to Dinner?

Our first guests arrived within 24 hours of eachother and the weekend was filled with a whirlwind of Parisian "Must-See's". The picture you see here is taken under the Arc de Triomphe, direction Champs Elysees (sadly the only group photo and it is blurry). Together we visited Versailles (bonus: free on first Sunday's of the month), Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe and had a delightful meal for 20 Euro or less!

By the way, that is the infamous TB above, looking thrilled to be in Paris.

Toussaint

Appropriately, the day following Halloween (which is only an imported holiday in France, used as a marketing tool for the ever-hungry consumer) is All Saint's Day in France (or Toussaint). Traditionally, the day has served as an opportunity for families to clean the graves of their departed. We thought it was a perfect opportunity to visit one of the world's famous cemetaries, Pere Lachaise, the eternal home of Jim Morrison, Chopin, Moliere, and the star-struck lovers Heloise and Abelard (wiki-them).


Over 300,000 bodies are buried within the 118 acres cemetary.


The almost-as-anti-climatic-as-the-Mona-Lisa grave of Jim Morrison. Fans have caused such chaos at the gravesite that a full time security guard has been hired to prevent vandalism and theft.



Chopin's tomb, attracted the largest crowds, as well as the most flowers and candles. The most incredible graves were found along streets far removed from the famous inhabitants of the cemetary, but who inspired their loved ones to create works of art to honor their memory.